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Induction cooking is faster, more precise, safer, and does not flood your kitchen with combustion gases. Millions of homeowners are making the switch. But unlike swapping a gas range, going induction means dealing with your electrical panel.
| Appliance | Voltage | Breaker | Wire |
|---|---|---|---|
| Induction range — full-size 30" | 240V dedicated | 40–50A | 8 AWG |
| Induction cooktop only — 30" | 240V dedicated | 40A | 8 AWG |
| Induction cooktop only — 36" | 240V dedicated | 50A | 6 AWG |
| Portable single-burner induction | 120V standard | 15–20A shared | Existing |
💡 Already have an electric stove? Look in your panel for a 40A or 50A double-pole breaker labeled "range" or "stove." If it is there, you can swap to induction with zero electrical work — just plug in and cook.
200A panel: Almost certainly yes.
100A panel with mostly gas appliances: Good news — homes with gas heating, gas water heater, and gas dryer often have significant electrical headroom. The induction range circuit is frequently accommodated without an upgrade.
100A panel with all-electric appliances: Depends on your calculated load. Use our free calculator to check.
⚠️ Check your panel slots first: Even with sufficient electrical capacity, you need two adjacent physical slots for a 40–50A double-pole breaker. Count your empty slots before anything else.
| Item | Typical Range |
|---|---|
| Induction range — 30", mid-tier | $700–$2,500 |
| New 240V circuit (gas-to-electric) | $200–$600 |
| New breaker + panel work | $80–$250 |
| Gas line capping | $50–$200 |
| Range hood upgrade (optional) | $150–$1,500 |
| Total project range | $1,100–$4,500 |
60 seconds. Know your headroom before committing to any purchase.
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